3D Pocket -
Flash design research
Sept 23, 2022
3D Pocket
- Pocket types & pattern explorations
- Drafting and construction exercise
- Tensile strength consideration
- Quick design iterations
Pockets and Storage
There is a countless amount of pocket types. We have all the classic ones, from patch pockets to cargo pockets, and the more discreet welt pockets. All this styles can then be adapted and modified for the desired purpose. Pockets are nowadays present in most garments, mostly trousers, jackets, vests, coats, and even technical t-shirt. In pieces such as skirts and dresses, pockets can still be absent for the sake of cost saving, or simply for aesthetic reasons. This is actually a hot topic within women, for most of who, pockets are a huge plus in dresses, skirts, and even leggings, since their need for pockets has been overlooked in the last centuries. Women actually had a more normalized access to pockets in the middle age than nowadays, wearing pocketed belts accessible via slits, under their many skirts.
In this lecture we looked at various pocket types and at how which feature can be used for a different use.
- Webbing and webbing systems can be used to secure elements on a garment or on a pack, such as with the MOLLE system used by military force. By having a set standard of measurements between webbing straps, all elements from multiple manufactures can be combined and secured together successfully. This technique cannot however, be used for everything: a too curved surface might be an issue for example. The webbing can also get caught in some elements, or can prevent good mobility, depending on it's placement. This is why is is mostly used to secure pack parts or accessories on other packs.
- Closing systems : flaps, velcro, zippers, snap buttons, classic buttons, puller cords, elastics, and buckles are all methods that present pros and cons needing to be taken into consideration for any design iteration, in relation to:
- the type of garment to design,
- the intended use,
- the nature, needs, and abilities (eg:dexterity) of the end users,
- the characteristics (shape, weight, fragility, etc) of the items that will be carried,
- placement on the body
- reach and ease of access
- and all the usual sourcing, costing, manufacturing elements of apparel design.
In-class exercise
Quick iteration exercise in teams of three - with Ulla Fomina, and Gabi Carvalho
Inspired by the above WGSN trend report, we had to come up with an upper body piece of apparel with functional pockets. We decided to focus on a mountain biking technical t-shirt. We based our research on a sample performance t-shirt. Our main goal was to come up with a pocket that would be easy to access and not cover any unnecessary surface on the user's body.
We assessed that our user would need to carry: a snack, a phone, and some water, not much else. In order for him to have his full range of movement while cycling, we decide the pocket should be located in the back of the garment. This placement allows to bend forwards and lift the legs / push on the pedals. The pocket is located at hip level on the t-shirt, to steer free of the back ventilation panel on the garment, but also for ease of access while cycling and for a more stable storage area.
We angled the pockets in such a way that reaching back would be as easy as possible for the user, while on his bike. To reduce bulk, and facilitate access to the pocket content, we chose to close our sides pockets with a "pillow case" method of fabric superposition. The stretch of the technical jersey will allow for the content to be secured without the need for a finicky closure system. We also angled the gusset to provide more extra space in along the length of the pocket. Where the tip of both side pockets overlap creates a third pocket that would, when assembled, be mounted with a small elastic band at the top to secure the carried objects.
This exercise was extremely successful in putting in evidence the quality of work we could produce under a 10 minute timeline, and when teamed with colleagues with a different skill base. I believe we were efficient in defining and ranking the design criteria we needed to feel, in order to come up with a viable solution and a good illustration of our pocket concept.
